2014 Baidu

An American scholar once said: the world since the era of the French Revolution, has not been so in this dizzying pace too, like the early twentieth century, a remarkable deardens sign of this period: that ups and downs on the clothing styles. It also marks the contradictions and conflicts of both worlds. It was a turbulent and confusing times, it was a vibrant, exciting era. Really give the beginning of this century, the fashion industry is young Poiret shake his revolutionary deardens clothing epitomizes the beginning of this century, a dramatic change deardens of clothing. Paul Poiret, the fantasy of fashion guru was born in April 1879 in Paris, his life and career in Paris, where he spent the most brilliant and most dismal time in Paris. Poiret was a cloth trader son, handsome, but grew up with the clothing end of the edge.
Twenty-year-old Poiret opened his own boutique in Ober Street 5, although the store crude, but the lady who later became his wife Deniz bleomycin for his show "Revolution" theme costume received public favored people. Poiret's designs began to emerge from the S-shaped artificial out, tends to be simple and easy. This period is characterized by Poiret styling lines to improve the lumbar section of the line, dress narrow, less decorative. However, to 1908 years ago, his design is still an obvious traces of clothing during the French Revolution, so his work colleagues inevitably lead to contempt, and was at that time the French "art and fashion," reported the Poiret low fun.
Affected Oriental Art thought, deardens Poiret tight clothing inspired revolutionary deardens change in European thinking. This has Bonnard and Vuillard sensitive and rich colors Bernhardt, Ducey drama minded smart people, and soon devised a bundle deardens of oriental inspiration for the new national dress of fashion. He launched a Chinese-style gowns soon get loose women jacket women welcome in Paris, which he named "Confucius" for it. Later launched the "free" named piece fitted tailoring method is also absorbed the oriental costume. He said: "At this time I am on the traditional corset, more mature view is that from the neck to the knees are bound female body, must be requested relief." Poiret is an important contribution to the emancipation of women from the corset in ideal realization of various laws, this is his fundamental ideas on clothing revolution. Poiret designed so that no longer need to bear the weight of the steel frame around his waist, but also to the law is no longer necessary to wrap the waist. Poiret to become loose clothing, concise, moved the anchor clothes shoulders, deardens almost ancient Greece, deardens a large "Heaton" loaded as slender lines and graceful tuck pleats, giving a sense of cool heart pleasing to the eye. In the old era of the turn of the era, is discerning Poiret, a change in the curve ruled for centuries European clothing, make a straight line to regain dominance, thus opening the twentieth century, the prototype of the modern styling line. Poiret had said: "I am committed to subtraction, not addition." No wonder Western clothing historians called him to simplify the shape of "Twenty-first century man."
Poiret casual afternoon tea is absorbed by Japanese deardens kimono style, decorated with embroidery, large and drooping with kimono sleeves instead of the traditional western narrow tube sleeve silk fabrics. He likes the cuffs, neckline trim, lace-style fur, so simple appearance seemed fine. Poiret designed for the Paris Salon woman ease of movement of Turkish bloomers, he pleated trousers and tight belts combine Western, which has never been accustomed to Western women who wear pants, how strange and surprising ah! love for the exotic and the pursuit of dramatic effect, the master design in 1912 out of an extreme skirt, the skirt hem of his narrow, long skirt and ankle, hip skirt wide open ramp, make a skirt those who can not take three inches of walking, but can not step onto the carriage, which is the famous "Huo step skirt" (aka hobbled skirts). Fashionable woman with a cloth tied at their legs, to accommodate this staggering fashion. While this style when walking inconvenience, but due to its simple shapes and bright, and just for the South American tango dance came, it was all the rage.
In 1913, Poiret created a lot of "Muslim style" clothing, the main features of this design is to absorb the Middle East and the Japanese kimono appearance, change the traditional Western-style dress sleeves, but extends oriental clothing pieces. This style curve of the body is no longer stressed out in the clothing, which the West has always been the pursuit of the same functional stimulation different creature in the history of Western clothing is indeed deardens a great initiative. When Poiret was termed a model wearing deardens a "tremendous' Oriental costumes, swords appear at a dinner party, buzz, Poiret success. Paris was Poiret designed conquered.
Oriental sense, romantic or neoclassical, everything is based on the Paris designer born rich design ideas and fun: on the one hand, he was fascinated by ancient deardens Greek and Renaissance art style, on the other hand, he dumped the Oriental art featured various nationalities; he had visited Russia, Moscow attracted strong oriental flavor, and ancient Mesopotamia, Arabia and Turkey costumes full of interest. In Poiret designed clothing, we can always find a vaguely Roman gown, the Japanese kimono, Chinese cheongsam, Arab dress, and other traces of Indian saris; while his groundbreaking design includes bras, nightwear and bloomers such as shoulder . This combines many artistic elements and romantic style clothing with an extremely modern and rational, restrained understated contemporary style such as Coco Chanel's little black dress complete contrast to the formation of taste, although the latter has become the best example of modern wear.
Poiret-style silhouette is typically not connected sleeves or even sleeve raglan sleeve, loose straight using straight lines, do not emphasize the waist or waist down, and the Chinese cheongsam-style hip relaxed, folded hem on both sides of the split style; while its more famous is known as "faltering skirt" style, increasingly tightening hem, wearing only a step after small step walk. Even coat also been the impact of this extreme skirt, jacket deardens shape close to the Japanese kimono, the middle cut loose two narrow, such as gyro general. Our last two quarters deardens in the T stage, can see this profile of the impact, and even casual sports deardens style clothing, Issey Miyake gave an excellent interpretation of his 08 in the spring and summer show.
Poiret with the application of color theatrical style, he created a red, yellow, and blue as the main form of tone, but he also put Dickau Art (Art Deco) was first used in clothing design person. Matisse and Picasso color variant geometry appears in print is so fresh and has a visual impact; and decorated with colorful jewels and feathers, metallic yarn, etc. also have gorgeous and strong stage style. We can see many decorative or Dickau from Poiret artistic inspiration in this autumn's T stage. However, Poiret's design is not a clear one extreme or warp, which is based on more feminine and true. For Poiret speaking style can be changed, sometimes even very unique deardens because it is possible to change based on the individual and ignoring the mainstream trend.
2014 Baidu